
Terroir in the US is defined as a “sense of
place”, referring to subtle local influences in the flavor of food and
wine. In the European sense of the term, terroir is not magic but a
formula—a well-defined tradition that is the result of clear choices,
hard work and cooperation between regulatory authorities and local
growers and producers over time. In France, the idea that you can
create terroir began in the 14th century and took into account both
environmental and cultural influences. The hallmarks of those
traditions continue today at Cypress Grove.
By skillfully managing a number of practices, Cypress Grove has created
a unique terroir. Our dairy producers have chosen goats that thrive in
our climate and they feed them on pasture that includes local
vegetation. In our cheesemaking process, we let as much local
environmental influence into our creamery as regulations allow.
What does that environmental influence look and feel like? Well,
stunning vistas and moist air. We’re located in rural Humboldt County,
in the northern most reaches of California. It’s rugged and remote
here, a place where the legend of Bigfoot is celebrated with a yearly
festival. The area was settled by 49ers who came searching for
gold…only they never made it inland for they saw gold in the towering
redwood forests that cover our surrounding mountains.
Our creamery sits where the redwoods meet the Pacific Ocean, the
perfect vantage point to watch the fog roll in. And roll in it does!
We’re second only to London for foggy days. We like to think that the
softness and mystery of the fog infuses our cheese. A Humboldt Fog
® made in Peoria just wouldn’t be
the same!
Humboldt County is still primarily agricultural, with dairies, fishing,
and timber being the mainstays of the economy. Like elsewhere, however,
we’ve experienced market pressure that rewards large agribusinesses
while creating hardships for smaller agricultural-based family
businesses. We’re proud of the fact that our cheesemaking success has
helped to sustain the livelihoods of many small goat dairies. We’ve
even started to encourage some of the smaller cow dairies in the area
to switch to goats, thereby providing an alternative that allows rural
families to stay on their land. It’s a win-win-win situation: dairymen
get to continue doing what they love, we get more high quality milk,
and open space is preserved for the community to enjoy.
Who are the people who milk their goats twice a day, every day, no
matter the weather, holiday or circumstance? Let us introduce to a few
of them:
Joe and Maria, a long time cow dairy family originally from Portugal,
began to raise goats about 6 years ago when their sons became active in
4-H. Their goats, which graze in the lush bottom land less than a mile
from the ocean, are so healthy that their coats glisten and their milk
volumes are off the charts. Their boys are now off to college, but Joe
& Maria still milk both cows and goats every day.
Clive still milks his cows but his wife, Lorie, tends their growing
herd of primarily alpine goats on the edge of Humboldt Bay, on a bit of
land called Cannibal Island. Lorie is “encouraging” Clive to give up
his cows and take the plunge to an all-goat farm. Knowing Lorie, we
expect their goat herd will be growing!
Mike and Jeanette and their young family recently moved back to
revitalize their family’s farmstead on the banks of the Mad River. They
chose to raise goats instead of the cows that had traditionally been on
the land. Mike uses innovative techniques to improve the quality and
quantity of his milk production. By dividing his pasture into many
small lots and rotating his herd through them, he’s able to offer his
goats lush, fresh, clean feed each day. Mike and Jeannette have also
designed efficient herd management systems and are currently working to
provide some of their power with solar panels.
The Beck family, with their three home-schooled children, are among our
newest producers. They too have chosen goats as a way to keep their
farm alive, give their children an opportunity to work on their
great-grandparents farm and keep it in the family.
Stacey and Chris and their new baby are fourth (soon to be fifth)
generation dairy farmers in Humboldt County following the traditions of
their Swiss ancestors – with goats! We love seeing a young family make
the choice to enter the dairy business with us. It is rare.
We are all real people doing what we love, in one of the most beautiful
places in the world. It makes a difference that our milk comes from
these small pasture-based family farms; a difference in the quality of
our milk, in the quality of our lives, in our community, and, as our
zillions of awards attest, in our cheese.