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Terroir and the Cheese
Terroir in the US is defined as a “sense of place”, referring to subtle local influences in the flavor of food and wine. In the European sense of the term, terroir is not magic but a formula—a well-defined tradition that is the result of clear choices, hard work and cooperation between regulatory authorities and local growers and producers over time. In France, the idea that you can create terroir began in the 14th century and took into account both environmental and cultural influences. The hallmarks of those traditions continue today at Cypress Grove.
 
By skillfully managing a number of practices, Cypress Grove has created a unique terroir. Our dairy producers have chosen goats that thrive in our climate and they feed them on pasture that includes local vegetation. In our cheesemaking process, we let as much local environmental influence into our creamery as regulations allow.
 
What does that environmental influence look and feel like? Well, stunning vistas and moist air. We’re located in rural Humboldt County, in the northern most reaches of California. It’s rugged and remote here, a place where the legend of Bigfoot is celebrated with a yearly festival. The area was settled by 49ers who came searching for gold…only they never made it inland for they saw gold in the towering redwood forests that cover our surrounding mountains.
 
Our creamery sits where the redwoods meet the Pacific Ocean, the perfect vantage point to watch the fog roll in. And roll in it does! We’re second only to London for foggy days. We like to think that the softness and mystery of the fog infuses our cheese. A Humboldt Fog® made in Peoria just wouldn’t be the same!
Terroir and the Community
Humboldt County is still primarily agricultural, with dairies, fishing, and timber being the mainstays of the economy. Like elsewhere, however, we’ve experienced market pressure that rewards large agribusinesses while creating hardships for smaller agricultural-based family businesses. We’re proud of the fact that our cheesemaking success has helped to sustain the livelihoods of many small goat dairies. We’ve even started to encourage some of the smaller cow dairies in the area to switch to goats, thereby providing an alternative that allows rural families to stay on their land. It’s a win-win-win situation: dairymen get to continue doing what they love, we get more high quality milk, and open space is preserved for the community to enjoy.
 
Terroir and the Family
Who are the people who milk their goats twice a day, every day, no matter the weather, holiday or circumstance? Let us introduce to a few of them:
 
Joe and Maria, a long time cow dairy family originally from Portugal, began to raise goats about 6 years ago when their sons became active in 4-H. Their goats, which graze in the lush bottom land less than a mile from the ocean, are so healthy that their coats glisten and their milk volumes are off the charts. Their boys are now off to college, but Joe & Maria still milk both cows and goats every day.
 
Clive still milks his cows but his wife, Lorie, tends their growing herd of primarily alpine goats on the edge of Humboldt Bay, on a bit of land called Cannibal Island. Lorie is “encouraging” Clive to give up his cows and take the plunge to an all-goat farm. Knowing Lorie, we expect their goat herd will be growing!
 
Mike and Jeanette and their young family recently moved back to revitalize their family’s farmstead on the banks of the Mad River. They chose to raise goats instead of the cows that had traditionally been on the land. Mike uses innovative techniques to improve the quality and quantity of his milk production. By dividing his pasture into many small lots and rotating his herd through them, he’s able to offer his goats lush, fresh, clean feed each day. Mike and Jeannette have also designed efficient herd management systems and are currently working to provide some of their power with solar panels.
 
The Beck family, with their three home-schooled children, are among our newest producers. They too have chosen goats as a way to keep their farm alive, give their children an opportunity to work on their great-grandparents farm and keep it in the family.
 
Stacey and Chris and their new baby are fourth (soon to be fifth) generation dairy farmers in Humboldt County following the traditions of their Swiss ancestors – with goats! We love seeing a young family make the choice to enter the dairy business with us. It is rare.
 
We are all real people doing what we love, in one of the most beautiful places in the world. It makes a difference that our milk comes from these small pasture-based family farms; a difference in the quality of our milk, in the quality of our lives, in our community, and, as our zillions of awards attest, in our cheese.